Kościeliska Valley

Kościeliska Valley has many enthusiasts. It's considered as one of the most beautiful tatra vales, full of natural richness and historical memorials. Going through this valley do not give us any difficulties during winter time. However, it's recommended to wear suitable footware and take flashlight because of shorthened day. Path to shelter can become a great chance for cross-country skiing. Years ago it was one of the favorite ski spot, which held its central landmark in Pyszna Hall shelter, openened in year 1909, currently shut down.

We start our trip in Kiry. We can leave our car, bike or bus on one of many paid parkings here. Kiry have excellent transport connection to Zakopane and surrounding villages: Witów, Chochołów, Czarny Dunajec. At valley's exit many restaurants, guesthouses and Tatra National Park info boards are placed. Tourists can also hire a cab (even sleds), which will transport us from the valley's outlet, far into Pisana Clearing.

Kościeliska Valley entrance (TPN territory) requires payment, which is charged on place. The walk towards Ornak Hall Shelter goes along Kościelisko Stream at first. After passing Niżna Kościeliska Brama, also known as Kantak Gate, we enter wide clearing – Wyżnia Kira Miętusia where cultural sheep grazing is being held. We can try sheep milk products (cheese, żętyca) in local huts. After a while we reach the point where the trails spread: black on Przysłop Miętusi (Regle Path fragment), red through Adamica on Czerwone Wierchy, and our own trail, facing Ornak Hall Shelter (specifically on Mała Polanka Ornaczańska). After not so long, through the vale bottom, green and black trails go together, but before Zbójnicka Chapel, the black one goes right, towards Kominiarski Przysłop, Lejowa Valley and Chochołowska Valley.

We, however, go to Stare Kościeliska. Formerly it was a very lively place. It's because there were mining and steel industry buildings, forester's lodge, later tavern and small shelter of count Władysław Zamoyski located here. Today there are no traces left after these monuments. The only exception is blast furnace foundation ruin, indicated by memorial board. After heavy snowfalls it might be barely visible.

On the southern end of Stare Kościeliska we find trail branching: black one leads to Mroźna Cave (closed during winter), blue, labeled in year 1892 by Mieczysław Karłowicz (mountaineer, photographer, composer) to Stoły Clearing. Right after trail turns to Stoły, we go through Pośrednia Brama Kościeliska (Kantak Gate), and shortly pass the place to which leads the descending trail from Mroźna Cave.

In over a dozen minutes we get to Pisana Clearing. Besides wooden benches and tables (often covered after snowfalls), where you can take a rest, there is also cab's final stop. Because of visual valors, Pisana Clearing region is very popular among tourists, who usually take souvenir photographs here. Limestone rocks, visible here and there, are exceptionally impressive, with massive Kominiarski Wierch rising above the clearing and Kościeliski Stream, writhing nearby. Behind the clearing, after crossing the small, wooden bridge, we pass Cracov Gorge entrance, which ends with a cave known as Dragon's Cavity. The yellow trail leads us inside the gorge, however cave passage is extremely dangerous in winter. We go further down the Kościeliska Valley bottom, we pass Wodna Cave under Pisana exit, Mylna Cave descent and also, in Wyżnia Kościeliska Brama region, trail start leading to the caves: Raptawicka, Obłazkowa and beformentioned Mylna. Likewise, those caves are not recommended in winter because of their steep approach.
From this point the valley expands slightly which means we're entering glacier-transformed terrain. Soon, on the right side, in forest, Wincenty Pol Cross and Smytna Valley outlet should be visible on the elevation (avalanche hazard after large snowfalls!). After 10-15 minutes we reach trail divergence. The black trail starts here and leads to Smreczyński Pond in 30 minutes. This trail, visually pleasing and safe in winter, can get us to one of the more colorful Tatra region.
Our green trail turns left, leading through Tomanowa Valley to Chuda Przełączka (Czerwone Wierchy). This section is closed in winter, however. If we want to arrive at PTTK Shelter on Ornak Hall, we should go straight the yellow trail, and get there in couple of minutes. We return to Kościeliska Valley exit with the same way.